After a bit of ironing today, I tidied up my sewing table, and dressed the mannequin to show off the finished products!
Processed with MOLDIV
Processed with MOLDIV
Processed with MOLDIV
And don’t forget those underthings…
It feels good to be done, now I’ve got to plan out where and how I’m going to wear this thing…
I finally had an afternoon off to sit down and add some style to this dress. As mentioned already, I did the easiest part first (because the feeling of doing something right is a great motivator), and added some bias tape around the bottom hem to strengthen against any dragging on the ground. Next I studied and planned out the easy-looking geometric trim.
Planning took on a few different approaches. I’ve never done anything like this before so I was trying all sorts of ways to translate what I saw in the photo, to my materials, to my dress. I measured and drew out a version of the pattern, then eventually made a mock-up from some packing paper. Once I was happy with the scale of everything, it was go-time.
I began but cutting out a little diamond… and then did that seven more times. Those got pinned to the dress at measured intervals, before adding alllll the rest of the trim. For the finished product you’ll have to wait until the next post for the big reveal!
I literally took every inch of this from the shop. to make sure I had enough.
Diamonds are forever… or something.
Trimming a skirt is a lot more work than I’d imagined it would be. I hemmed the dress and sewn on some brown trim that will help protect the end as it rubs over the ground. I’ve also drawn up some plans for a super tasteful geometric pattern along the bottom of the skirt. Doing that involved math so I honestly got bored and needed a little more excitement.
I whipped out the handmade straw hat I’d been gifted and set to work sorting ribbons and silk flowers. This was going to be a quick, easy afternoon job (read: instant gratification).
Back showing the nice silk ribbons
Pumpkin Spice Latte!
Lovely hat and dress
I looked up a few examples of straw hats from the period from various sources, then got to work. Important to note here is the presence of the pumpkin spice latte. Coffee was required, and ’tis the season! About an hour later I had my silk ribbon trim and ties, velvet band, and silk flowers on and ready to wear! I’m still debating lining the inside of the hat – there’s nothing worse than doing your hair perfectly and then having little stray bits of straw pull your hair all out of sorts.
Now that I’ve finally created the bare-bones dress, I need to start concentrating on the finishing touches – those little additions of ribbon or lace that add personality and Victorian pizzazz. This calls for a trip down Pinterest lane to see what inspiration I can take from historic photos and dresses in museums around the world…
Methinks a certain amount of frillage is in my immediate future. Any thoughts? Also, I think I’ll need a bigger crinoline 😉
So, you know, in my spare time I like to whip-stitch a bunch of meticulously created hand gathers to some ribbon to make one heck of a pleated skirt! I’m really impressed with the end result, but also really happy that I’d used an upholstery-grade nylon thread to help hold up all this fabric.
As seen from the inside of the skirt
An on the outside. The ribbon will be covered by the bodice.
Once the million pleats have been safely attached, the next step was to attach the bodice to the skirt to create the dress. The next steps are to add the buttons (and button holes…), as well as hook and eye closures, and of course, the collar!
Just a mini-preview of the two pieces attached
Ugh 46 steps later…
Alright! There have been some major developments regarding the creation and future life of my soon-to-be dress. I’ll start with the sleeves – They exist! They went from really large and odd-shaped bits of fabric to actual tubes of material that my arms will go into. They were unsurprisingly a lot of work, but by this point I feel like I’m really getting the hang of hand-gathering and using the zipper foot on the sewing machine, so it wasn’t too bad. After doing up French seams, gathering the top and bottom portions and creating and sewing on the cuffs, I sewed them onto the bodice and voila!
Sleeve all cut out on the floor
After more hand gathering I made up the cuffs
Testing it out on my arm, just to be sure…. yep it’s a sleeve
Attached to the bodice with that lovely piping
Interesting point of note number two for this post: I have found the most amazing accessories. During a visit out-of-province for a family reunion, I popped into a local antique market and nabbed up a vintage chemise and Irish lace collar. I’ll add a backing the to the collar to give it more definition, then use some of the Welsh lace scraps I have to match for the cuffs. This really is a pan-British ensemble.
Lovely collar I found for $15
The chemise fit perfectly!
Detailing on the top and neckline
The chemise helps keep the corset clean
Last, but very not least, is the gem of a find online of a dress-maker’s mannequin. Usually one can find these in any sewing supply store for about $150-$300, but I managed to buy one in perfect condition for $30. I’d like to thank Tyler for stumbling upon this on the internet, as well as the universe which was clearly on my side for this one. With the mannequin I can layer everything up then do any hemming, or detail work by hand without having to try the whole thing on every time. Getting dressed can really be a workout.
Bodice with sleeves on the new sewing mannequin
I can’t believe I only paid $30 for this…
I’ve felt bad for neglecting my dress, so I decided to do the steps that I’ve been reluctant to do, either because I was afraid I wouldn’t know how or because I didn’t look forward to the time/concentration commitment. I finally made up the piping to go around the shoulders and neck, and just sat down an accepted that there’s still a great deal that has to be sewn by hand. I made a really big coffee and got to work.
These bits had to be invisibly stitched.
So I sat down and sewed it up. I’m pretty happy with the result.
Making piping meant using the zipper foot. I’ve never used the zipper foot before, but it was so easy!
Pinning the piping to the arm holes.
And the finished piping attached to the bodice.
I’ll mention here that another reason I made a push to finish off the more tricky steps is finding the photo below. It was a great inspiration to see a dress from the period that will look extremely similar to the one I’m making.
In my semi-lazy quest to complete the steps of dress construction according to whatever colour of thread I have in the machine, I took on finally building the bodice of my dress. I was a bit nervous about this part as I really do want it to fit well. Historical Sewing had a couple blog posts on doing fittings and mock-ups that came in handy. What she doesn’t mention though, is the delicacy with which you have to don your in-progress bodice; the temporary home of a million tiny every which way pins.
Adding the boning
Getting that lace trim on the lining for a pretty interior
I worked again with instructions that seemed like some sort of advanced logic puzzle, and tried to make what I was doing look at least somewhat like the illustrations. I added some subtle lace trim to the inner lining of the bodice. Did you know that the vast majority of work/decoration/embellishment on a dress will never be seen by anyone other the person putting it on? I just made that up, but I’m pretty sure I’m right. I also added the boning to the lining to help keep and create that little waist that Victorians were going for.
Inside out bodice
Trying not to stab myself on pins while I take a photo
The inside lining
and the outside with those lovely little gathers
Once the lining was done it was time to add it to the bodice, pull and secure all those mystery gathers, and do some trying-on. It was at this point that I realised that I had basted the lining to the arm holes all wonkways, so that had to be taken out and redone. Finished product for this sewing session is one kinda completed bodice that still needs piping, hemming, buttons, a collar, and sleeves.
Just a small update on the goings on of my sewing room: things are progressing. Not overly quickly, but I am in fact getting things done. I managed to peacefully and happily sew the waist band into the petticoat – with a few of my own improvisations. I prefer a tie-back rather than hook and eye closures (I just never trust the things to stay closed) so I left the ends of the waistband open and fed a fabric tie through. Success.
The only thing left to do on the petticoat is the lace trim along the bottom. Since I am without a dress form or mannequin, I had to get everything on to determine the perfect finished length (gotta cover that hoop skirt), then try to pin it in place like a tin man with my corset all tied up.
Hilarious sidenote here – while Tyler was being a good sport and taking my photo, my dog Perry was hiding under my skirts.
With a few days off I tackled little bits of the dress and petticoat. It has definitely helped to be able to leave everything out on the dining room table. I can walk by and go “Yeah I’ve got a few minutes. I’ll cut out some skirt panels.” Little bit by little bit the steps are being checked off.
I did take that horrid mess of a waistband off the petticoat (it has yet to go back on). The four panels for the skirt have been cut with special help from the hallway floor (the dining room table wasn’t long enough). The bodice fabric and lining has been cut out as well.
Step 1 of the bodice took a little while to fully understand as it was another battle against vague instructions, and an ignorance on my part about how to actually hand-gather fabric. Once I had done all the hand gathering I was still at a bit of a loss as to when I should be tightening and tying off the stitches. Apparently it’s more towards the end of sewing the bodice together… is what I imagine because it never really says.
Cutting out parts of the bodice
The hallway is great for cutting out skirt panels
Instructions strike again!
Doing some hand-gathering.